Is there anything else to Qingdao than just lager?Yes, loads, but not at this time of year when China’s northeast port city is marinated in the amber fluid for an entire fortnight. From August 14-28, the resort town hosts China’s equivalent of Oktoberfest, its annual bonanza of beer and belching, which, since its inception in 1991, has proven to be the single best marketing campaign for the century-old Tsingtao brewery which produces China’s de facto national beer.

Lager central is the main tent on Xianggang Dong Lu, right on the sea. It resembles the one in Munich – rows upon rows of tables, pitchers upon pitchers of beer, sweat, froth and filth, but with “Fuwuyuan!” replacing “Fraulein!” as the call of the wild. Buy a pitcher for RMB60 and never look back. Outside the tent promises an equal amount of high culture – parades, drinking competitions, karaoke and more beer. Despite its international status, the festival focuses mainly on Chinese and Asian beers, but you’ll find some Western staples.

If, on the off chance, you’re interested in seeing the real-life version of the iconic octagonal pavilion that adorns every bottle of Tsingtao, stumble down to Zhanqiao, the pier built in 1891 when the city was under German control. Then head to Wusi Guangchang, the large public square in the CBD whose Wuyue Feng sculpture stands as a testament to the May Fourth Movement, the historical nationwide protests of 1919 in which Qingdao played a key role.

If you can’t make it to Qingdao this year, there’s no need to drown your sorrows. The festival is rolling out satellite events – the bizarrely named ‘Passion Squares’ – in most major cities, including Shanghai.

Travel pack

How to get there

The cheapest way to get from Shanghai to Qingdao is by train. A hard seat will cost you RMB170 one way, and takes 18 hours. Your best bet though is a single airfare from Shanghai to Qingdao on China Eastern for around RMB500 (taking just an hour and a half). Once you get there, airport bus route No.3 takes you to the International Beer City and costs RMB15, or a taxi will cost around RMB90.

Where to stay

If you’d rather spend all your money on beer, try the budget Kaiyue Youth Hostel in Shinan District. It’s recommended by Lonely Planet, and has an impressive cafe and bar. A deluxe twin private room with ensuite goes for RMB140 a night, or slum it in a seven-bed mixed dorm for just RMB45. If you’ve got money to burn, treat yourself to a stay in the downtown Qingdao Shangri-La at RMB935 per night.

What to eat

Qingdao is a seaside city so it’s no surprise its cuisine is marine-based. Take a walk along the streets of the old quarter and you’ll see wet markets spilling out onto the sidewalk selling hundreds of different types of fish from polystyrene crates, along with shellfish, turtles and creatures you won’t even recognize. Fresh seafood is sold at nearly all of the restaurants in town. We recommend picking one that takes your fancy, buying a bag of beer and asking the manager to pick out some daily specials. A decent meal shouldn’t set you back more than RMB40 per person at a street restaurant.

What else to do

Once you’ve seen the iconic pier and had a spin around the Old Brewery museum, there are beaches to explore (Shilaoren is the best), parks to walk in (Xinhaoshan has some pretty rock gardens and a wacky revolving observatory inside a red pod if you can stomach the steep climb) and some colonial architecture with a Germanic twist. Shinan District has some of the best examples, including a Catholic church and the former governor’s office.